The Past Few Days

The past few days have been relatively uneventful in Nazareth, which is cool. I've had plenty of time to read, which is great, but English language materials are hard to come by, consequently, I've been reading books from the Church library. Today is rained, but tomorrow I am headed to the Mediterranean city of Akko.

But I have plenty of time to think. Increasingly, my thoughts have turned to what to do after Zion and Springdale, as someday I will have to leave. Lately I've felt that I will end up in New York City, which is so opposite of Springdale. Canyons of steel and concrete, not Navajo sandstone. But I do not think that will be anytime of soon. I found a volunteer position in American Samoa that looks promising, but that will be in about 18 months, if it works out. But where ever I end up I feel that I will end up overseas in some sort of service capacity. Now that I have had a taste of living overseas, I want to keep that up.

This Sunday I have been presented with an amazing opportunity. I've been invited to an international eco-tourism conference at Haifa University in Haifa, and on the Mediterranean! How cool is that? I'm going with Maoz, the owner, and hopefully I can make some good industry contacts. I'm glad that I brought a stack of my Zion Adventure Company rookie trading cards to give out. Hopefully I will have some good industry insight when I return. I'm feeling much better about my time here, and that I am actually making a difference with my service here.

Nazareth AP Article

Here is a link to an AP article about Nazareth with mentions the Fauzi Azar Inn. The boxer mentioned is the guy I buy fruit from, and sometimes he throws in an extra piece for free. The owner of the Cactus gift shop that is mentioned is not very friendly. My friend Leanne saw it in The Deseret News, and sent the link to me.

http://www.deseretnews.com/article/705353940/Nazareth-Off-the-beaten-track-in-Jesus-hometown.html?pg=1

My Time Here: Is it Worth it?

I am really questioning whether I should stay in Nazareth at the FAuzi Azar Inn until January 20th. I came to aid in building a business, not to do mediocre tasks like moving chairs and refill a coffee urn with water. That is not business building at all. The things I see go on here at the Inn should not happen, especially for a business that wants to grow. Maybe the views of professionalism are different because of culture.

I just needed to vent, because no one here seems to care about how I see things. An outsider's perspective can add a great deal. The owner says he values what I have to say because I have a tourism background and graduate education, but I doubt that because I have yet to see that.

Christmas Greetings from the Holy Land

Christmas is about an hour away for me. I hope that your holiday season has been filled with light, love, and laughter, and that your new year brings renewed purpose, meaning, and opportunities for growth and to love.

Kosher Food Article for The Spectrum

http://www.thespectrum.com/article/20091220/LIFESTYLE/912200315/Beliefs+on+kosher+food+varies+between+sects++family+members

I have 2 comments on this one!

The Sea of Galilee

What was going to be a big weekend in Tiberias, the main city on the Sea of Galilee turned into just one day. I quickly realized that:

• The rain would hang around for awhile.
• That all of what there is to see in Tiberias can be seen in a couple of hours.
• The sea is not that exciting, especially up close. It is really dirty, and the one beach I visited had a storm sewer emptying into the sea right next to it. Scenic.

I also learned that McDonald's ice cream cones taste the same regardless of whether it is Utah or Tiberias, but Snickers bars are much better in the Middle East. I cannot figure out why, I think it is the peanuts. Also, for a hostel that costs NIS 70 (about $20.00) a night, one must have very low expectations. It was more hostile than hostel, but at least I had a private room.

So I returned to Nazareth early, which was good. I met a group of German artists, and we went to dinner together. I think the invitation came because one of the guys and I had similar Timbuk2 messenger bags. Everyday I meet such intriguing people. I'm glad that I live in Springdale where everyone seems to have an interesting story. One of the guys I work for at Simply Birkenstock has had this amazing life, and I am continually learning new things about him. Sometimes I feel lame in comparasion to other Springdale residents; so many have accomplished so much more than me much younger than me. At least when I return I can say that I lived in Israel, but other people can say that too.

A Bit of Randomness

Yesterday I found out that the big thing with middle-class and upper middle-class women here is (of all things) TUPPERWARE parties! That just sounds so 1985 to my American ears. That will be the topic of next week's article for The Spectrum. There was a problem on Sunday so the article on the exciting world of kosher food will be published on the 20th.

The Walmart Crib (Black Friday Edition)

A sad reflection of American society.

The Walmart Crib (Black Friday Edition)

Christmas in Israel

I keep forgetting that Christmas is next week. It is easy to do in a predominantly Muslim community in a Jewish country. In Nazareth, the population is about 30% Christian, so there is some Christmas stuff going on, but not nearly the amount that is customery in the United States. A few shops selling tacky Christmas ornaments made in China, and a few businesses with lights. That is it. The Fauzi Azar has some decorations, but even with that is it still a bit surprising when I remember. I have been told there will be a parade on Christmas in town, so I will have to check it out. On Sunday I will attend a Christmas concert at the Basilica of the Annunication. It will be in about 6 languages, so that should be cool. I recently learned that the Basilica is the largest church in the Middle East. Interesting.

It has been great to not have to deal with holiday shopping, however. As I won't be back to the US for 6 weeks, I still have plenty of time to accomplish that. Awesome. (Not to ruin the surprise, but the gifts will be Israeli souvenirs). Before I left I saw the most horrifying picture concerning holiday shopping ever. It was from the People of Walmart website, perhaps the most disturbing site I have ever seen. I am from Minnesota, hence, being a Target shopper is in my blood, and this is the sort of thing one would never see at a Target. The link is posted below. Fortunately, I have yet to see a Wal-Mart in Israel. They do have IKEA here; it is in suburban Tel Aviv. I know that everything there is exactly like I can find in the US, but going to it is still on my To-Do list.

Laundry in Israel

I broke down last night and I did laundry by hand. It took almost 2 hours, but when you can only fit about 5 articles of clothing in the bucket at a time, it takes a while. Then rinsing, wrining, and hanging up to dry. I'm not sure how clean they actually are. They all smell like Dr. Bronner's Magic Soap in Citrus, so I guess that is a good thing. Unfortunately, with the humidity here, things take FOREVER to dry. I'm still not done, and get to do more tomorrow, or I just might wait until next week.

However, there was motivation in washing my clothes by hand. The money I saved by doing this will pay for 1/4 of a day trip to Masada and the Dead Sea from Jerusalem. I sincerely hope that the promised washing machine arrives this week as promised. I will never again complain about having to go to the Zion Park Laundry in Springdale or the cost associated with it.

Visiting Biblical Sites

Being in the Holy Land, visiting Biblical sites is what one does. Visiting every site would be nearly impossible considering the sheer number of time. I am already having to decide which sites to cut out because of lack of time. It does not look like I will get to the Dead Sea this trip to Israel, but I have been invited to come with a friend in 2011 for her birthday. Maybe then.

What I have noticed at these sites is that I do not really feel anything. I look at them, think "That's cool," and I go on my way. This morning I went to the Greek Orthodox church near Mary's Well. There is a spring which has been flowing since Biblical times and is the reported place of where Mary would draw water. (Hence the name). The Greek Orthodox church was built over the spring, and while I was there all the members of a Russian or Ukrainian tour group wanted to drink the water and wash their hands and faces in it. I was not inclined to do that in any fashion. They also were kissing a lot of the pictures in the church, which probably is not a good idea.

I am starting to think that something is wrong with me that I feel nothing at these places. Here I am visiting sites that are key to religious traditions worldwide (my own included), and I do not feel any different. I feel more spiritual in Zion National Park than in this Zion. Maybe there is something wrong with me. I spent the last week here with my friend Karina from Zion and Springdale. She had been here for almost 5 weeks before she said she really felt anything, and that was at Mount Tabor. I'm trying to figure out how to remedy this situation, as there is great potential for spiritual growth in the place central to 3 major religions.

Life at the Fauzi Azar

I've noticed a few comments asking what it is exactly I do here at the Inn. My responsibilities as a volunteer are minimal. I check people in, answer the phone, help people find their way around Nazareth (which can be tricky), ensure that there is hot water for tea and coffee, that there are baked goods available, and I chat with guests. Really it is very similar in many respects to what I do at Zion Adventure Company on a daily basis, except here my days do not involve washing muddy 5.10 Canyoneers, stinky neoprene socks, and Kokatat dry suits from the Narrows or the Subway in the cold at the end of the day. I am enjoying it very much. Because of my tourism and business background I also help with some special projects the owner has. Presently I am working on creating a guest feedback survey, updating the volunteer documents, and reviewing a multi-day package that is offered.

I only spend 4 hours or so a day with my volunteer activities, which allows plenty of time to explore. I spend a lot of time writing in my travel journal at the Basilica of the Annunication about 3 minutes from where I live. I recently discovered that it is the largest church in the Middle East. Interesting. Tomorrow I am tackling the task of washing clothes by hand. The promised washer has yet to arrive and I am in dire need of clean clothes. I had debated taking it to the laundry, but as the laundry charges by the kilo, it would have been about 80 shekels or $27.00 for clean clothes. That is more than I am willing to pay. I never thought that in 2009 I would be washing clothes by hand...actually never in my life did I think that would be doing something like that.

The Past Few Days

Not much of note has happened here the past few days. I am enjoying very much simply living. My schedule is: sleep, yoga, eat, explore, write, eat, write, hang out. It is great. Being here has made me realize that I can live even more simply than I do bake in the States. One of my biggest realizations is that I can wear the same pair of jeans twice and nothing bad will happen.

Wednesday the owner of the Inn commented to me that he liked my blog. This was shocking to me as only about 2 people here not including him knew about it. He has Google Alerts or something set up for any mention of Fauzi Azar, and I mention that pretty prominently in the blog. Anyway...because of my blog post about the laundry quandry, the volunteer house is getting a WASHING MACHINE this week! How exciting is that? Life has just become so much easier. I just hope it arrives before I leave for my weekend at the Sea of Galilee. Toda Maoz!

Friday I got to visit the neighborhood mosque for a special tour. I had to buy a head covering so that I could even visit. I am no closer to understanding Islam after that visit, however, I need to make remedying that a priority. There is still so much that I do not understand even about Judaism or my own religion for that matter.

Christmas Cookies

One of my responsibilities as a volunteer is to keep the baked goods stocked, a task to which I am most amenable. However, not everything that is readily available in the US can be found here, like Cream of Tarter. How odd is that? Anyway...we are fully booked for Christmas, and we will need to make lots of cookies for the guests. My beloved Cooking with the Choir cookbook is obviously in Utah, so if anyone has a cookie recipe they could share with me I would greatly appreciate it. Of course, I could go to some website for something, but I would prefer something from those I know and love. It would also be appreciated if these recipes 1) included chocolate in some fashion and 2) do not include marshmallows.

Recipes can be emailed to me or posted as a comment on the blog.

Toda! (Hebrew for "Thanks!")

A Moment at the Basilica

At Zion Adventure Company a big thing is noticing moments or times of importance throughout the day. These can be big or small, but times of great significance. Over the season noticing moments was something I struggled with greatly. But this morning at the Basilica of the Annunciation I had a poignant one. The Basilica is about 1000 feet from where I live, and this morning I was there to write postcards. It is a popular stop for tour groups, and this morning I stated speaking with a man, Emmos, from Nigeria. Out of nowhere several members of his tour group sat down next to me, wanting their pictures with taken with me. It was rather surprising. About 10 minutes later I spoke with some of the other group members, two men Tony and Mike. After about 2 minutes, Mike told Tony to take his picture with his "new friend," which was obviously me. It was humbling to be thought of his friend after such a short interaction, and there was obvious sincerity in his comment. After Tony and Mike left, it took a lot for me not to start crying in the middle of the gardens at the Basilica.

A lot of my faith in humanity was restored this morning. I just wish that there was more of what I experienced this morning in Israel between Israelis and Palestinians. This afternoon, I watched some of the neighborhood kids play in the lane. Their games involved toy guns and a lot of hitting, and I thought a lot about how much hatred is perpetuated from generation to generation here. Those children are the next generation of leaders in Israel, and one must ask what their legacy will be and how will they address the Israel they have been given.

Spectrum Article for Sunday, December 6th

I forgot to post this on Sunday. It is the link to my first article in The St. George Spectrum about life in Israel. This week's topic: Kosher food.

http://www.thespectrum.com/article/20091206/LIFESTYLE/912060328/First+impressions++Experiencing+Israel+from+an+American+perspective

Mount Precipice

This morning's excursion took me to Mount Precipice, about a 30 minute walk from the Inn. Mount Precipice is the site where people attempted to throw Christ down into the valley when he asserted that he was the son of God. It bothers me how weak I have become in the hiking department. Hiking at near sea level should be no problem, but it is killing me. I kept asking my friend how much farther it was, which is very unlike me.

After I went to my first Israeli grocery store. Not reading Hebrew or Arabic, I have to rely solely on pictures to buy food. Fortunately, Nutella seems to be universal, and I am glad that I have recently started liking Nutella. (Thanks ZAC co-workers!) Being searched by armed guards before entering was unusual to say the least. The day that starts at the Sol Foods Market in Springdale is the day I have to move.

Hiking in Zion

This morning I hiked a portion of the Jesus Trail, a trail that the owners of the Inn have been working on for quite some time. The trail goes from Nazareth to the Sea of Galilee, as the name implies, following the route Jesus may have taken while travelling that direction. Angels Landing it was not, but the mud was something to contend with. The trail this morning went past Cana where the miracle of turning water into wine occurred. As with many of the Biblical sites here, a new church has been built over the ruins.

Yesterday I visited the neighborhood mosque. The tour guide from the Fauzi Azar Inn asked me if I had a head covering with me. No, sorry, that is not something that I just happen to have in my Timbuk2 bag. But as the mosque is having the volunteers back on Friday for an indepth tour, I need to purchase something. On this trip I really hope to come to a better understanding of Islam, considering its prescence in the the US. There is so much about that religion that I just do not understand, but I really want to, especially the place of women in society, considering my experience yesterday.

Picture uploading has been weird; it seems to take way too long. I will have to work on that some.

Pita Bread

Until now, I had not been a fan of pita bread. I guess I was sort of ambivalent towards it. But having it fresh is something new all together. Yesterday I was introduced to perhaps the most hole in the wall restaurant I have ever been to: Pita Pizza. The entrance and ordering area is maybe 4 feet wide, but the pizza is heavenly, and a mere 6 shekels, about $2.00. Added bonus: the guys the run it are very nice to look at. I also have a souk (market) maybe 100 yards from where I am. The prospect of eating fresh fruit, fresh bread and hummus for the next 2 months sounds excellent. Another added bonus: it's cheap.

One thing I am struggling with is the lack of laundry facilities. You can send laundry out and they wash it for you, but they charge you by the pound. But the prospect of washing in a tub by hand is thoroughly unappealing. Before I left I practiced wearing the same pair of pants twice. Maybe I should I tried 3 times. My roommate found my practicing hilarious.

I have an hour before I need to be back for training. Off to do some journaling. Pictures will be forth coming. I just need to find my SD card reader with the USB port.

Some of you have asked for my mailing address. I can be reached at:

Charlotte M. Vaillancourt
Fauzi Azar Inn
2606 Nazareth
16125 Israel

Nazareth

After 3 days in Tel Aviv, I finally arrived in Nazareth. One thing that I have found disheartening about Israel is how run down and filthy everything is. For a country that is only 60 years old, I would expect a little more from it. Also dealing with being around people who smoke has been an issue as well. Today has been tough as I really, really want to go back to my Zion. Right now the prospect of 2 months here bothers me.

This morning was perhaps the most unsettling experience of my life: the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station. Technically it is the "new" bus station, but using "new" to describe it is quite a stretch. It was new like 30 years ago. Supposedly this bus station is the largest in the world, but that did nothing to help ease my fear of being there. For me the most unsettling aspect was the military prescence there. The Israeli bus system, Egged, began as a way to transport troops, and it still does that in a big, big way. Israeli military people were everywhere, including their loaded AK-47s and cases of extra rounds. When one of the military guys was behind me as my luggage was searched, the second I saw his gun, mere inches from me, I thought I was going to be sick.

The Fauzi Azar Inn is quaint by American standards, and my living space is something that one might find in Middle Earth, very Hobbit-esque. I half expect Frodo, Samwise, Pippin, or Meri to pop out at any moment, though I would prefer Legolas. Fortunately, my friend Karina from Zion National Park has been here a month, and will be here a while more. I have someone to show me the ropes.

The Most Surreal Experience of My Life

Yesterday I attended the LDS Branch in Tel Aviv, which meets in a bomb shelter/conference room (which the desk attendant from yesterday thought I would be impressed with as it was "a real Israeli bomb shelter" and this being his second attempt at flirting which was even worse than the first) and one of the members in the Branch began talking about Bumbleberry Pie when I mentioned I was from Zion.

Never in my life could I conceive of a time when those 3 things would ever come together in such a fashion.

Shabbot

Last night the Sabbath began, and I am still not sure what to make of a lot of what goes on. I spent the start of Shabbot with a family I had met ironically at Zion Adventure Company over the summer. The food and company was excellent, and I learned a great deal about kosher food. There were even some arguments about what exactly constitutes kosher food, much like the discussions at university amongst my friends as to whether or not non-caffienated Coke was okay. After last night I know what my next article for The Spectrum will be: kosher food.

Moreover, everything basically shuts down for 24 hours. The desk attendant at the guest house actually said that using the Internet was forbidden for Shabbot. It was his attempt at either humor or flirting, but whatever it was it failed miserably. Fortunately, I am able to use it. As for the elevators, I guess they run automatically. I have been avoiding them and using the stairs so as not to offend anyone.

Jet lag fortunately has not been a problem, but taking 3.5 hour naps probably helps. Israel is shockingly expensive. I'm regretting my decision to buy shampoo and soap here. Oh well.

My internet for the day is almost up. After 2 days in the country, I can say that my Zion is definitely cleaner, prettier, and friendlier than this one. I miss Springdale a lot.

Shalom!

15 Hours in Israel

About every 5 minutes I ask myself, "What have I gotten myself into?" Craziness that's what! Thankfully I decided that I wouls practice my French at Zion Adventure Company this summer, because that has been very useful, perhaps moreso than English. Some quick notes on my time here this far, as I only have 10 minutes of typing time left before I have to search for directions to the home of a family I met at Zion Adventure over the summer. They are having me over for the start of the Sabbath tonight.

• Turn signals are more of a suggestion than anything here, and crossing 4 lanes of traffic without so much as checking ones blind spot is common too.
• I stick out in a big way: blonde hair and very fair skin just scream, "FOREIGNER!"
• Air Canada did not show A Christmas Story as the website promised. Sadness.
• Things are really expensive here. The dinner I got last night for the price of something at the Bit 'n Spur was pretty sad.
• I received welcome to Israel text messages when I turned on my cell phone to check the time.
• There is a mezuzah on my door frame.
• The elevator kindly reminds people not to touch the buttons on the Sabbath.
• Everytime I see a LandCruiser I think of Zion Adventure Company.
• Not one person has asked about my ZAC jacket yet. Weird.

And a special note to Frank and Charlie: They have Crocs here! I saw 3 pairs at breakfast alone! (To everyone else, I have received a lot of grief about owning Crocs and working at a Birkenstock store. My Crocs have come to Israel, but will not be returning to the US.)

On the agenda for this morning: visiting the Mediterranean Sea.

Shalom!

The Zion Adventure Begins!

In exactly 15 minutes I leave for the beginning of over 28 hours of travel to get to Israel. Fortunately, Air Canada has a stellar line-up of TV and movies to choose from, including A Christmas Story. I had been sad that this might be a holiday without seeing that movie, but fortunately it won't be.

But leaving Zion won't be easy, but I really am not. I'm just headed to another Zion half-way around the world. One thing I am looking forward to is the reaction from people when I say, "I'm from Zion" when they ask me where I am from. Coupled with the stockpile of Zion Adventure Company shirts that are in my suit case, I'm sure that several conversations will arise from it.

I'm sad that I have to leave in the dark this morning. I would have liked to see West Temple from my kitchen window one last time.

Frank will be here in a few minutes to take me to the airport shuttle. Next stop: Tel Aviv.