I thought I knew what cold was having grown up in Minnesota. After all, being in Owatonna meant that school never was called off for weather. (Our school district was notorious in this regard). I've walked to school in -26 F temperatures with a -76 F windchill. But Minnesota is a dry cold. Temperatures in Batumi never really go below 32 F (0 C), but because of the proximity to the Black Sea, the cold here is something unbelievable even for someone from Minnesota. When I was back in Minnesota in December and January, it was unseasonably warm this year. Also, having central heating standard in homes is a God-send.
Batumi's cold is a frigid, damp, humid cold...a cold that gets inside of you and literally does not leave for months despite all efforts to get warm. Trying to get warm is almost a futile effort, because you can't. It is horrible. As I type this, I am in the "warm" room of my house, yet I can still see my breath. Part of me is glad my travel alarm clock with temperature feature broke, because then I can't be appalled by how cold it really is in my house. My house has had gas heating installed, however, it is not yet operational. I hope that it becomes operational in the very near future, as in right now. Snow and rain are also a near constant part of the mix, making it extra fun. The forecast for the next 10 days goes from happy suns to 6 days of seemingly endless angry, frowny, grumpy, grey rain clouds. So much to look forward to.
Teaching will be interesting at the university. My office has a heating/cooling unit which runs at 28 C all the time (and the 3 of us still complain of being cold), but at Batumi State University having heat in the classrooms is something that doesn't seem to happen. It may still be viewed as something "decadent" from the capitalist West for all I know. Perhaps investing in a portable heater that I will carry from class to class is a good idea; however, classrooms are also limited in outlets. Consequently, I have to decide between 1) teaching class with a laptop and PowerPoint or 2) being warm. Decisions, decisions.
The next question one might ask is, "Charlotte, how does one attempt to combat this?" Answer: very carefully, with a multi-faceted approach.
First, the layering of clothes night and day is essential, crucial, and critical to success. On an average day, I wear at least 3 shirts, my trusty ZAC Black Marmot fleece jacket, 2 pairs of socks, pants with leggings underneath, waterproof leather boots, scarf, wool jacket, and now 2 pairs of gloves. Sleeping is really hard. I'm already in my pajamas, with 2 pairs of pants and 2 long sleeved shirts and 2 pairs of socks. I will sleep under 3 blankets and 1 thick comforter. I sort of make a little cocoon of it all and hope I don't need to get up during the night. Despite all this, I will still be cold. I must admit that I've cried myself to sleep more than once because I've been so cold, and that much of the clothes a departed Peace Corps volunteer left me to give to a second hand store has been commandeered by me for layering purposes. When I finally leave Georgia, it will go to its intended destination.
There is also a small space heater in my room. Yesterday morning there was some rather lively action coming from the extension cord it was attached to. My room has 2 outlets, neither of which work. At about 3 a.m. yesterday I was awoken by a loud bang, and couldn't tell if it was real or I had simply dreamed it. Then I saw an odd orange glow in my room. It was an electrical fire. It burned itself out quickly, but it left a rather sizeable burn mark on the parquet wood floor. I called my host brother on the phone despite him being across the hall. His rather chill response indicated to me that this was nothing new to him.
Next, I've developed a taste for tea. I drink a lot of it to stay warm. The proximity to Turkey provides easy access to an ample supply of delicious apple and blackberry teas. I also have a stash of 30 packets of Swiss Miss Hot Cocoa in my drawer.
Finally, I joined the Radisson Batumi Spa and Health Club. I will admit that the ability to be warm, hot even, and access to a limitless supply of hot water were higher factors than the ability to work out, but not by much. As it is the off season, there is rarely anyone there in the morning besides me. Perhaps the name should be changed to "Charlotte's Private Spa and Health Club." I work out, then I get my hot shower for the day. Tomorrow I am finally going to try the pool, Finnish sauna, and steam room. I will probably be there close to 5 hours, with a repeat on Sunday. I know that such a move is so decadent and Western, but it truly is a main key to keeping my sanity in what is a Georgian winter. And many people in Georgia have it much more worse than I do. Life in the village would be unbearable right now.
Hi Charlotte,
ReplyDeleteI'll be coming in another week or so and wanted to know from your past experience how long does winter usually last? What is the weather like in the Spring? Trying to see what I should pack. Thanks!